Nukus, 4 Kalas, and Khiva

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, there was a small and enchanting town called Nukus. We, the weary travellers, embarked on a journey to explore its hidden treasures, guided by fate and curiosity. Our adventure began with a single day in Nukus, and here, we share our tale.

Our quest began with a stay at a charming guesthouse that welcomed us with open arms. The guesthouse's warmth and hospitality were as comforting as a familiar bedtime story, and the breakfast they served was fit for royalty.

However, Nukus itself, like a tale from a bygone era, told a story of a different time. It was a Soviet city, marked by a sense of history and endurance. The town's Big Bazaar offered a glimpse into the bustling life of the locals, as we meandered through the stalls, browsing for curiosities.

As the sun blazed overhead, we strolled along the riverbank, trying to escape its relentless heat. Our recent journey had left us weary, and we longed for respite. Our tired eyes were greeted by an unexpected sight – a multitude of weddings, a vivid tapestry of joy, tradition, and celebration.

With the day fading away, we made our plans for the next leg of our journey. We savoured the delicious somsas for lunch and ventured to a local restaurant next to a magnificent mosque for dinner. The restaurant's menu, written in Uzbek, posed a challenge. With no English-speaking staff and Google Translate unable to decipher the script, we played a culinary lottery, ordering dishes without knowing what awaited us. To our delight, we were served Mantis, delicate noodle dumplings filled with meat, and a soup with stuffed peppers – an unexpected yet delightful twist in our tale.

Wary of a long and crowded minibus ride, we chose to book a tour to travel from Nukus to Khiva. The next morning, our driver, a guide of the desert, arrived to usher us into a realm of ancient fortresses, each whispering tales of their own. In total, we encountered four castles, standing firm for over a thousand years. The first, Chilpik Kala, was but a hill with remnants of walls, once a resting place for the departed, left for the birds to feast upon.

Our journey continued to Kizil Kala, a fortress with stairs and caves that graced us with breathtaking views, the perfect backdrop for dance videos. Toprak Kala beckoned with its still-standing walls and gates, inviting us to wander through history. A break by a tranquil lake offered respite, where we dipped our weary feet, granting us newfound energy under the unrelenting desert sun. Our final stop, perched atop a hill, rewarded our climb with sweeping vistas and the delightful presence of swings and yurts at its base, reminding us that anyone who disliked swings was simply wrong.

At last, we arrived in the ancient city of Khiva as the sun dipped below the horizon. We settled into our guesthouse, a haven of tranquillity, and prepared a humble dinner from the treasures we found at a nearby supermarket.

The following morning, a sumptuous breakfast at our Khiva guesthouse set the stage for our exploration of the city. Khiva was a vision straight out of the 1001 Nights, with clay houses, blue mosaics, towering minarets, and mighty city walls that guarded its inner secrets.

We roamed the streets, but alas, the city was not a hidden gem; it was brimming with tourists. Yet, fate had a plan, for we met again our fellow travellers River and Jefris, and together, we embarked on a journey to uncover Khiva's enigmatic past. We shared a guide, discovered culinary delights, and revelled in the town's vibrant atmosphere.

As we explored palaces and carpet workshops, our guide attempted to unravel the city's history. However, our guide's knowledge was incomplete, leaving us with unanswered questions. We strolled to the train station, past the beauty of blooming flowers and charming houses, to secure our tickets for the next part of our journey, alongside our newfound friends.

After lunch on our guesthouse's balcony, we paused to organize our thoughts and affairs, taking advantage of the precious Wi-Fi signal. In the evening, as the sun's fiery glow mellowed, we ventured out once more. The gentle kiss of the setting sun painted Khiva in a mesmerizing light, and with the vanishing tourists, we felt as though we had the city to ourselves.

Our evening culminated in a delightful dinner at a quaint art restaurant, where we savoured the local speciality of green noodles, infused with the unique flavours of dill. Finally, we returned to our guesthouse, eager for a restful night, as our journey was far from over.

With the dawn of a new day, we arose early, ready to embark on the next leg of our adventure. Our destination: Bukhara, a fabled city that awaited us. As we boarded the train, we were joined by our newfound friends, River, Jefris, and Reinhard. Together, we ventured forth, ready to embrace the stories that lay ahead on this enchanting journey through the heart of Central Asia.