Our train ride to Nukus

The morning sun had barely painted the sky when our adventure to Nukus began. With a sense of anticipation in our hearts, we rose at 6.15, eager to embark on a journey that would take us through realms unknown.

After a hearty breakfast that would fuel us for the day, we gathered our belongings, making sure nothing was left behind (we failed, left one bag of food behind). It was time to bid farewell to our familiar surroundings.

A taxi whisked us away to the train station, where we arrived at 7.40, expecting the train to depart at 8.20, as indicated on our tickets. However, a curious twist of time revealed itself - the train had already left, operating on a different time zone than the time mentioned on the tickets. The tickets used the Astana time (aktau is one hour later). Undeterred, we secured new tickets for the next train, which was scheduled to depart at 12.40.

After waiting at the station for those long five hours, the modernity of the train took us by surprise. It featured both upper and lower bunks, the latter serving as seats during the day. We had the chance to watch 'Shrek 2' on board. To our delight, there was free hot water, a precious resource for making noodles and tea, ensuring our journey would be a culinary adventure.

Fate brought us into the company of fellow travelers - Jeffrey, River, and Reinhard. Destined for Nukus like us, we engaged in lively conversations. Reinhard, a well-traveled German, shared his wisdom, while River and Jeffrey documented the journey with videos for their grandchildren.

Ramen became our companion for both lunch and dinner, the culinary highlight of the day. After savoring our meals, we retired to our bunks for a couple of hours of rest, allowing the rhythmic motion of the train to lull us to sleep.

Around 11 pm, the train reached Beineu, where we awaited the connection to Nukus. This layover gave River the chance to teach us hoop tricks, and locals approached Jeffrey for photos, finding him a curiosity.

Anticipating the train would arrive a 2.30 am in Beineu, we were positively surprised when it entered the station at quarter to 1. But we couldn't rest yet. First, we had to navigate the intricate process of passing through Kazakh border control. It was a long and somewhat comical affair, as the first officer struggled with our passports. We even had to open one of our backpacks, just to ensure no one was attempting an unexpected exit from the country.

Eventually, a cheerful officer arrived, humming and singing as he efficiently handled our documents, stamping our exit. Relieved, we found some respite for a couple of hours until Uzbek border control.

This part of the journey felt even longer, as exhaustion weighed on us. A K-9 unit scrutinized our luggage, and questioned us about what medicine we were carrying.

Taking a brief break at the train station, one of the border control soldiers even ventured to ask Julia for her Instagram, a curious and unexpected encounter. At last, after a two-hour wait, we were back on the tracks at 6 am, heading for Nukus.

We decided to rest for a few more hours, catching up on the sleep we'd missed during border crossings. As we woke around noon, we were greeted by the vast and unchanged Uzbek landscape, unfazed by our temporary absence.

Our fellow passengers became more interested in us, and communication was primarily facilitated through Google Translate. Two kind-hearted elderly men, adept at sign language, proved to be invaluable during the border control process.

Turning our attention to sustenance, we stowed away the lower bunk, transforming it into a makeshift dining area for a breakfast of fruits, nuts, dried bread, and hot tea. Noodles made a repeat appearance for lunch, a familiar comfort in our ever-changing journey (I really don't want to eat noodles for the next couple of days).

Nukus came into view shortly after 6 pm, signaling the end of our train odyssey. We disembarked and began the last leg of our adventure on foot, making our way to the guesthouse we had booked.

Our journey encountered a minor hiccup as the guesthouse was full. They forgot their hostelworld password and thus couldn't check our reservation. Yet, the resilient spirit of travel prevailed, and the staff arranged an alternative guesthouse for us, even covering the taxi fare.

Finally, we found ourselves with a room of our own in Nukus, and as the day drew to a close, we gratefully laid down our weary bodies to rest. Our fantastical train ride had delivered us to this new and intriguing destination, ready to explore the enchanting secrets Nukus held.